I bi-wired the speakers using two pairs of Neotech 5001 speaker cable for each speaker. Currently I am using the fixed input of the amp from my Audiolab 8200CDQ which in my system is the pre-amp. I find this matching to be very good, sound is detailed, airy and bass is very present. semi truck engine repair

None . . .

Good speaker sounds really good for price.

Heavyweight, not something u carry around for long periods of time.

Not the most for the money any more An update, even though the model's long gone and we're not inundated with similarly-priced powered subs: First, it's gratifying to see that many have tried the expedient of converting the sub from badly-tuned ported enclosure to sealed-box.

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Much malign for being an optimus brand and being passive with high crossover. This sub coexist with my bookshelf 3 way yamaha with a sony str d315 no frills 185w reciever. Sub excels in a 12 × 15 room with a L shape couch with 10 ft as the farthest end. Im using the sub crossover( no mods) and it is very musical, goes to the low of lows with jazz, r and b , rap. Going strong 25 yrs now. New rubber surrounds on year 19. A keeper - just to remind me how fun is to be in radio shack. Btw, the cabinet is sooolid as a rock. I added extra foam when i refoam the driver.

Original foam surrounds on driver wilted ....

I have a HK AVR30, a Dinosaur for sure. I just got my SW-12 handed down from a relative that passed away. Haven't actually fired it up cause I wanted to know since my HK has a Subwoofer channel and volume control can I just run the Sub connectors (2 wires) to the sub and run it like that? Im not planning on having the sub close to my reciever and it would be a pain in the butt
running all those wires to the sub and then to the speakers. ( JBL Lab 5 Series) Old Buzzards would like to know....

The cabinet is very good, the driver is not. I replaced the driver with a Dual Boss CX120DVC and put 3 inch thick foam or fiber glass would be fine, same L x W of box, 1 piece. The insulation is a must as the box is slightly too large. When I ran the box through a computer program it all was fine except 2.0c' instead of 1.7c'. The port diameter and length were good. By putting the foam in it tightened the bass very much!!! Also, the driver hole had to be enlarged by about .5" for new driver. The existing crossover should crossover at half of what it did, so now about 125HZ 6db per. Since it's a 4ohm new driver it changes the crossover point lower which is exactly what it needs as well. Very tight and good low end easily down to <30HZ.

Good review! I am replacing mine with a Boss dual voice coil and I like the crossover mod, it's what it needs. 2 questions though, can I leave the dual voice coils alone and not parallel, I don't see the benefit?? But can you explain the crossover mod with more detail. I am a EE by trade and want to make sure I understand. Are the 2 5.6mh place is series with each positive from each voice coil and then parallel the 150uf across each pos and neg of each voice coil?

Thank you very much,

My personal email would be better at publicmail2@verizon.net

Anthony

Yes, this sub had quite a few downfalls but it was very cheap and I managed to get a great sound out of it in the end. I would up using an old Scott receiver that I had laying around to amplify the sub. I turned down all the bands on the built in 7 band EQ and left the 60HZ maxed. I hooked up both channels on the dual voice coil sub. For some reason, this combination worked amazingly for me. The bass was pretty tight and I didn't have to worry about the horriable internal crossover because the EQ on the receiver was taking care of the high frequencies. The sub was also a tank. I used it for 12 years and then lost it in a move.

I could not recomend this sub if it is to be wired in with speakers but definately if you have an unused receiver or amp and an EQ that you can hook it up with to make it effectively active.

Not a bad sub. Actually a nice cabinet, if you're okay with a passive sub. Like others have said the internal 200 hz passive crossover (that is what it is supposed to be, it's probably higher if you do the math) is way too high if you simply run your surround through it. ( this sub has inputs and outputs so you can drive it from two other channels in your system). Stuffing socks in the port isn't a proper fix. Take the woofer out, wire the sub in parallel (this is a dual voice coil sub) pos to pos then out to the amp and the same with the negative. This makes a 4 ohm load going to your amp (half the power to get the same sound level if your amp is 4ohm stable, make sure first.) finally rip the crossover apart and wire it as follows: both the 5.6 micro henrie inductors get wired in line on the positive side then take the two 150 micro farad capacitors to BOTH the negative and positive channels. This won't short everything out. I promise. This will give you about a 60-80 hz second order passive crossover ( it will knock 12 db off each successively higher octave. I.E. Each 50 hz higher will be 12db quieter. ) all the parts are in the box so it's basically a free fix. You can also buy a cheap driver that handles more power if you blow the woofer or need higher power handling. (wal mart sells a 12" dual brand sub that sounds awesome. The woofer surround rotted out of my driver.) anyway, the cabinet is nice and stout, the woofer is ok and if you re-wire the crossover like I said it makes this thing sound 200% better and gets rid of all the "muddy" sound. Search for "building a passive crossover" easy mod worth the time and takes this sub from good to great.

Low price, for those on a budget.

Boomy bass.

I bought this sub new in 1996, because it was cheap. I don't know what I was thinking at the time. I used it never looking at the specifications on it. I recently looked at them, and I was stunned to see why it was so cheap. Sensitivity 80 dB, crossover over 200 Hz. Although it doesn't sound all that bad, I ended up having to buy a better sub. I'm giving this one to my younger brother who's in college.

It's not a great sub, but not horrible either.